| Q: |
Back for more advise, I found out I will need to replace the old pipes in my house and have gotten estimates from different plumbers. On a recent search on Google I found \\\"PEX\\\" what is your take on this stuff. Would this be an option to discuss with my plumber.
Thank You |
| A: |
David, ever since copper has skyrocketed builders are moving to Pex in new construction, and large remodel jobs. Most plumbers are sticking to what they know works in remodel jobs. The worry is that 5 years from know problems will arise because this stuff wasn't tested. Copper has been around for many many years. Copper also has a natural way of killing some bacteria as the water flows through, Pex does not. While you may save in initial material costs, labor would be about the same. My move would be pay a little extra for the insurance of knowing Copper works. I will let Curtis from Petersen Plumbing know that you are interested, they do both Pex and Copper. If it's okay with you I will give him your phone number.
Sincerely,
Andy Love
Ask the Expert |
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| Q: |
I'd like to know where my rear property line ends without paying for a complete survey. We've lived here 7 years without finding any markers. Any suggestions? |
| A: |
Your markers can be found with a metal detector. Another way is to mark the telephone poles or other indicators of easments. The best way to be sure though is to go to the city and look at their plot layout. They will pull out a blueprint of your neighborhood and give you measurements from different markers like roads, telephone poles, and even your neighbors.
Hope this helps.
Sincerely,
Andy Love
Ask the Expert |
|
| Q: |
How do I obtain a contractor's license for Scott County Iowa. Do I need to take a test? If so, how do I obtain the studying material and how much does it cost? Thank you |
| A: |
John, good question, You may want to varify this with the city of Davenport 563-326-7711. But for licensing and to do work in the city you will need to take an open book test, that will run you just over $1000.00 for books and testing. If you are doing work in Scott County rural, you only need to pull permits and have inspections done on your work. Bonding and License are not required. To call the county building official the number is 563-326-8643, ask for Bob Buck. Thanks for the question. |
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| Q: |
I'm thinking of making a full bath in my basement , when we finish our basement, but there is no drain or plumbing for a sink, toilet and tub. I was curious if you know someone that could lay plumbing in the basement floor so I can create a bath. Also, I would like your input on the sprayed foam insulation on poured basement walls.Is it cost effective or to expensive ? have a budget to meet. |
| A: |
Brian, thanks for the question. Many people are remodeling their basements these days. I use Petersen Plumbing, they are a rather large company, and there prices are very competitive. They are the most professional plumbing company I have had the pleasure to deal with. Give Curtis Hagen a call at
563-326-1658 for a free plumbing estimate.
www.petersenplumbing.com
chagen@petersenplumbing.com
926 West 3rd St
Davemport Ia, 52802
For the insulation, foam is becoming more and more popular, I have not priced up against regular insulation. Give Brian Frisbie a call at:
Patriot Express Foam
PO Box 55
Fruitland Iowa 52749
877-478-4758
brian@patriotexpressfoam.com
www.patriotexpressfoam.com
Hope this helps.
Sincerely, Andy Love Ask the Expert |
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| Q: |
My wife and I are looking into the purchase of a preconstructed home from Design Homes or CSI homes. What can you tell me about these types of homes and or these businesses.
Second part to my question, what can we expect to pay for the other componenets of the home, such as to have a foundation constructed, water, sewer and electric hooked up, landscaping work,finishing the basement, concrete walk and driveway installed, etc.
Trying to get a cost estimate of the entire home project. Is there someone you recommend that can help us come up with a cost estimate?
Thanks, Jim |
| A: |
I actually visited an outfit in southern Iowa that constructed these type of homes. I went down with my friend to view his house being made. I was impressed with the process, and the finished product. I asked the guy how they deal with cracked drywall as they ship it down the road, and they told me it's a guaranteed repair once they get the house the the final destination. if I remember right my friend spent roughly $9000.00 on foundation and flat work. 22,000.00 on attached garage, for some reason they didn't do garages. Check with CSI Homes not sure if they do or don't. And I believe his sewer came in right around $5000.00. Landscaping he did himself, but you can get a pallet of sod for $75.00 at lowes. and to finish the basement with a bath, bedroom and egress window well. plan on $50.00 per square foot. Take the length times width of your basement and multiply that by $50.00. If you need help organizing that give me a call at 309-373-2209. Otherwise the business cards on QCGeneral allow you to be a better general yourself. |
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| Q: |
About 2 weeks ago, I noticed a discoloration on a foyer wall. It went from small to large, bubbling of paint, mold growing, nasty looking in a couple of weeks. Today I began scraping off the paint to find the plaster board as well as the wood below it wet. The wood is black and I'm afraid this is beyond my limited home repair abilities. Who do you suggest I call? |
| A: |
Deborah, sorry to hear about your ceiling. It most likely is a chimney, a valley or a flashing that has failed. Depending on the age of your roof, and this will be either a simple repair or a complete tear off. If you can poke your head up into the attic you can get a better idea of the area leaking, you will need a flashlight most likely. If you don't feal comfortable with ladders, give me a call at 309-373-2209, and I can meet with you and give you a better idea. |
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| Q: |
All of my neighbors are getting new roofs due to the hail storm. Should I call my insurance agent. |
| A: |
Yes, the storm that hit Coal Valley and Moline was a big one. It used to be that insurance agents would come to you after a storm. These days you have to go to them. I would call your insurance agent right away, you have 1 year to file a claim. When it comes to hail dameage, what many people don't realize is that if you let it sit for a long period of time the water will penetrate just enough to rot your sheeting.
Good luck! let me know if you need any help.
Andy Love
Ask the Expert |
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| Q: |
what would be an average price to have a 5pc tub surround installed, it will need to be cut to fit a window. |
| A: |
Assuming moisture board is in place, no new faucets. Depending on the quality of material. You can get the basic tub surrounds from Menards and Lowes for $60.00-$100.00. To glue, cut around faucet and window, then re-mount faucet handles labor should only run between 250.00 and 350.00 with you buying the materials caulk etc. Give Kurt with Big River Construction a call 309-798-3559. Thanks for the question.
Andy Love
Ask the Expert |
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| Q: |
We are looking for mulch in a bulk purchase. We don't want to use the cheap hard wood chips that are on the edge of being compost. Any suggestions? |
| A: |
Xylem in Cordova, 18715 Route 84 N, Cordova, IL 61242-9757
(309) 654-2551
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| Q: |
The recent hail storm ruined our old "turtle hood" for our ancient(circa 1973) inoperative whole house fan. We need to get both replaced but have no clue who to contact. Can you help? Thanks. |
| A: |
I know what you are talking about, the attic ventilator that mounts on the roof, usually with a humidistat and a thermostat to kick on when it gets too hot. Those are readily available at any Menards store or Home Depot. If you want to try and tackle it yourself simply turn off the breaker to the attic, you may need a circuit tester to make sure the power is off. You may also have roofing damage if it was large enough hail to damage the ventilator. I would call Big River Construction John and Kurt 309-798-3559. Good Luck!
Andy Love
Ask the Expert
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| Q: |
I hired someone to do a drywall job only to have them do 1/2 the job and walk off with my money do you have anyone that could help me out. The room is aprox. 12X10 with 8 foot ceilings. Limited budget do to the fact that I have paid once for this already. I wish I had found your website first. Thanks |
| A: |
David, sorry to hear about your bad experience, this is what the website
was created for, based on this premise. Call Ernest Exso,with Exso Painting and Drywall. He is a southern guy with southern hospitality. He does have a 150.00 minimum. Hope this helps.
Yours truly,
Andy Love
Ask the Expert
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|
| Q: |
I'm thinking of making a 3/4 bath in my basement and currently have a toilet and stand-up shower, but there is no drain or plumbing for a sink. I was curious if you know someone that could lay plumbing in the basement floor so I can create a bath. Also, the current shower and toilet are exposed to the rest of the basement so I'd like that framed in. Thanks! |
| A: |
Kimberly, the plumber I would call would be Mallard Plumbing.
He would be able to install that bathroom for you.
Thanks for the question, Andy Love
Ask the Expert.
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| Q: |
Andy,
I had my basement rewaterproofed. They installed a vinyl strip from the floor about two feet up the wall. (something about the moisture in the walls). Walls still get damp but floor is dry. I would like to finish basement but am concerned about mold behind vinyl and drywall? Is the vinyl safe. Will UGL work ok behind drywall?
Also want to put in toilet and sink down there. Someone told me there has be to be window in the room. Is that right? I live in Moline.
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| A: |
Debbie, what you would want to install first is called Glass board from
the wall coverings department for Menards, or Lowes. Its not very
expensive, but you will want to by the dividers and corners that are
sold separately to make it look good. You then can stud it out, insulate
and drywall. Most companies these days are installing that along with
there system. I know Mid American Basement is, at least I just saw one
recently. UGL needs the concrete to adhere and I think you will have
issues with a battle between water and paint. The water will win. Glass
Board however is about a 1/8" thick and will help channel the water down
into the drain. Make sure you run your adhesive beads vertical and not
horizontal. Check to make sure the adhesive you use doesn't have a
reaction to the glass board. Second make sure you look at the lay of the
land on the exterior, and if your downspouts are carrying the water well
away from your foundation. You could also excavate the foundation and
waterproof that way as well. I hope this helps, keep me informed.
Sincerely, Andy Love
Ask the Expert
Home Improvement.
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|
| Q: |
I am having trouble with birds getting into my chimney. I need to cap it but the problem is it does not have a liner in it. I had one company say I need to put a liner in first and one company said I did not need to. The difference is about $500.00. I just lost my job do to lay offs so money is tight. Do you know any body that I can call to see exactly what I really need? Thanks! |
| A: |
Jack, I would suggest Marshall Fuessell for your chimney repair. You can contact me to get Marshall's phone number. |
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| Q: |
I am having trouble finding a place in the QC to rent a dumpster so I can get rid of construction waste such as tile etc. Can you let me know where in the QC I can rent a dumpster for a day or two? Thanks! |
| A: |
I have a Dump Trailer I can rent to you, or drop it off and pick it up. $75.00 if you pick it up from me. $125.00 plus dump fees, (usually $25.00 to $50.00 if nothing heavy). If you want me to handle it, give me a call at 309-373-2209. |
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| Q: |
We're looking for someone that does landscape concrete curbing. We have multiple flower beds around the house. We're tired of plastic edging and brick edging which always comes up or shifts around. Any suggestions? |
| A: |
Patti, I have a name and phone number for you. Gabe VanLandschoot, please contact me and I can put you in touch with Gabe. He specializes in landscape and design, he owns Complete Ground Maintenance. He also makes his own mulch and silt fence. Give him a call and tell him Andy says HI.
Thanks for the question.
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| Q: |
I am looking for a company to clean my duct work in the house. Want someone that will do a good job but reasonable. Any suggestions? |
| A: |
RH & Company his name is Robert Holler. His number is located on
QCGeneral.com, under "interiors" and "mold treatment" scroll your
mouse over his business card and it will pop-up larger. Be sure to
sign his "guestbook" when he's done, he does good work. He also has
before and after picture on his business card.
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| Q: |
We are looking for someone to put an epoxy finish on our garage floor, any suggestions. |
| A: |
Doris, great question, call my office for a number I have for you. His name is Ricky Brennan with DNR Painting Ricky is finishing up a garage floor in Cromwell circle in Davenport. He would be more than happy to give you an estimate. Ricky uses an acid etch to get the concrete roughed, and then uses a citric acid as well to level it off again. Then he pours the Latex or Epoxy floor. Depends on how long of a warranty you want. He can't get the lead based floor paint anymore, that stuff would last 50+ years. Don't drive on it for about 5-7 days, you really want it to cure. Thanks for the question.
Very yours truly, Andy Love
Ask the Expert
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| Q: |
I purchased a home 3 years ago, the basement had a leak which is now being repaired but I have mold that needs to be removed. Is there a company here in the QC that does that kind of work. |
| A: |
Hello Penny, I have a person in mind to help you - he uses a real smelly white paint, and he coats the area affected, coats the bottom of the floor joists, and removes the spores from the duct work. Give me a call and I will give you his contact info and, also tell him you want Andy's discount :)
Yours truly, Andy Love
309-373-2209
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| Q: |
We had a large deck built last year with "green" deck boards from a local lumber store. When it was finished, all the boards matched up perfectly without any gaps. I know shrinkage will occur but at least 11 of the deck boards shrunk an inch or more. One so much that the screws popped out. Is the lumber company responsible at all or is this just something we have to replace ourselves and eat the cost? |
| A: |
Tricia, I am sorry to hear about your deck boards. That is an issue these days with lumber that comes from forests trees that are not allowed to grow into mature hardened wood. My dad put on a deck 10 years ago and he thought it would be a good idea to put nail thickness spacing between each board. He recently had to pull all the boards and butt up against each other, and then add about 4 boards. As far as the warranty, I know most of that stuff carries a Limited Lifetime. Shrinkage may be in the fine print. Call that Lumber Company you purchased it from and inquire. I know that Lowes carries true 1 inch boards, and Menards carries true 1 1/4 inch boards. That does make a difference in the amount each board will span, and shrink. The 1 1/4 inch board would shrink less and span farther than the 1 inch board. If you call the Home Improvement Company you purchased them from they may swap out the boards in question.
Good luck and thanks for the question
Andy Love
Ask the Expert.
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|
| Q: |
I have a brick planter that is attached to the front of the house. It has begun to separate from the house and bow out. It measures around 22' long by around 3' high and about 3' deep. I need to have it either replaced or repaired. Do you know of a reputable contractor that I could contact to get an estimate. |
| A: |
Frank, The guy you want to call is Marshall Fuessel. He is a local mason with an impressive track record. If you would like to view his work register with QCGeneral.com and click on Masonry, then click on his business card. His number is 309-292-4209.
Thanks for the question,
Yours truly, Andy Love
Ask the Expert
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|
| Q: |
Decra steel shake shingles. Pros and cons. Do you know of some homes recently roofed in QC area to pick out color for our home? |
| A: |
Gail, The pros of steel roofing is that you can never have hail damage, wind damage, algae, your gutters will never fill up with granules from the shingles, it lasts forever, and it has energy saving value. The cons are that it is 3 times the price vs. shingles. You can save some money by going over your existing shingles that would save you tear off expense, as long as you only have one layer. You don't want to put too much weight on your roof and truss system. We did an 8000 square foot job in Muscatine 2315 Stonebrook Drive with the Decra. Another option is the ribbed steel where we did a job at 4030 29th ave in Rock Island. It is a steel product just a different look. Thanks for the question.
Very yours truly,
Andy Love
Ask the Expert |
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| Q: |
Hi Andy,
First of all, thanks for all you do. I want to make a new top for a harvest table. I'd like cherry or maple, but can't find 1x12 8ft. boards. Any ideas? Yes...I KNOW it will be expensive. Thanks a lot!
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| A: |
Terry, great question. You don't necessarily need 1x12's if you try and glue those together as is, they will cup on you. You should really rip those down to around four inch widths, flip them and then glue. I use Lavern Weinschenk with Woodlux Cabinets. He can get his hands on 8'
stock for you, or build it for you as well. I just talked to him, and he said to give him a call, 309-798-4564 that's his cell.
Thanks,
Andy Love
Ask the Expert.
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|
| Q: |
Andy -- I would like to install crown molding but have a popcorn ceiling and know the molding won't be level because of all the bumps in the ceiling. What is your solution? Can you recommend someone to smooth out the area where the molding would fit and could you recommend someone to install the molding? Thank you. |
| A: |
John, the popcorn can be smoothed out as long as it was drywall compound used. I have seen a 5 minute mud used, and when that stuff dries it is like concrete, very rare, but it was done on my house in one of the rooms by a previous home owner. I too used a 4" or a 6" trowel to knock down the high spots. I am no trim carpenter, so I hired Les Paup
309-292-0642 to come in and he did an amazing job. It is difficult to do with a popcorn, but he made it look good.
Thanks for the question, and great question,
Sincerely, Andy Love
Ask the Expert
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|
| Q: |
I started mowing this spring a day after it had rained heavily. I tripped over a huge hole in the ground. After further inspection and poking around, it was about 10 feet deep and 10 feet long and wide. I need to fill it in but I don't know how cheap and easy it would be. My neighbor seems to think it was an out house area. Help! |
| A: |
Paula, Sorry to hear about the huge hole in your back yard. This is an interesting one. I have a phone number for you; call Dustin Dekeyrel
309-314-3228 at Triple D Excavating. I just talked to him and he would be interested in filling that in for you. E-mail me your address and if I am in your neighborhood, I too would be interested in seeing if that is possible erosion or an old site for an outhouse.
Very yours truly,
Andy Love
Ask the Expert.
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|
| Q: |
we have extensive termite damage in our garage. we need to find a local contractor to give us an estimate. |
| A: |
Michael, sorry to hear you are have termites they can eat a lot of wood fast. First thing we need to do is get that treated. I have a number for you. Springer Pest control, 563-322-1115. Give them a call to inspect everything and to make sure your house is not affected as well. If you have structural damage to the 2x4 walls, those will need to be braced back or replaced. Let me know when you get the termites under control and we will to from there.
Sincerely, Andy Love
Ask the Expert.
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|
| Q: |
Does vinyl siding contribute to rotting, moisture buildup or termite infestation, and How does its price compare with other replacement siding materials? |
| A: |
Vinyl siding will not cause any of these problems, but neither will it cure problems that existed before the siding was installed. Vinyl siding can be applied with assurance that it will not promote rotting, moisture or termite infestation. Indeed, the siding itself is impervious to rotting, and does not attract insects. It is designed to allow for proper ventilation. Pre-punched weep-holes along the bottom butt edge of the siding allow condensation to drain out. Vinyl siding is competitively priced with other siding materials. When you consider that you no longer need to have your house repainted every few years, the cost is very economical and eventually will be recovered by eliminating repainting costs. Vinyl siding is designed to last 40 years or more. Consult individual manufacturers for specific warranties. |
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| Q: |
Andy, I am curious as to whether or not there is anyone who will work with us to replace our kitchen cabinet doors and drawers. We have hand-made cabinets, the cabinets themselves are strong and amazing, but the doors are rather flimsy and dated. We would love to replace just the doors,drawers and replace the countertops. Got anyone for us?
You are a real find! Thanks for helping us homeowners who are clueless and pressed for time!
Lisa
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| A: |
Lisa, cabinet re-facing can be a great way to brighten up a kitchen. I have a name and number for you. Name of the company is Premier Bath and Kitchen Resurfacing, and its Mike and Gail. 563... . They average about a kitchen a week, doing exactly what you just described, and they are very good at what they do.
Very yours truly, Andy Love
Ask the Expert.
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|
| Q: |
I live in Andalusia and I would like to know who takes care of the water line from the alley to the house? Is it the property owner or the city. |
| A: |
Hello Mike, sorry to hear you have water issues on the outside of your house. You may want to confirm this with Andulusia's building inspector, but it used to be the homeowner is responsible for everything: The street and the property. About four years ago, the city of Moline changed it to where the city will cover everything up to the house. Rock Island it's also the homeowners responsibility, however the homeowner can opt for insurance to be tacked onto the monthly bill. Orange Burg is the product that is starting to colapse. The cost can be over $3,000 to repair. Thanks for the question. If you need further assistance, I encourage you to go to QCGeneral.com and click on plumbing, amyone of those guys can help.
Yours truly, Andy Love
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| Q: |
How hard is it to install a tub surround? I am concerned about the end where the plumbing is located and getting the "holes" placed correctly. |
| A: |
1. Your first job is to establish a vertical reference line you can count on. Use a carpenter's level to draw a plumb line, running up from the outside corners of your bathtub.
2. If its anything like the ones I am familier with, they have a five piece system. The corner pieces are the first pieces of the tub surround to be installed. First dry fit each one, and if your walls aren't square, adjust the fit by sanding the edges (or trimming, if the walls are really out of square).
3. The panels are often held in place by both adhesive tape applied by the manufacturer, and extra adhesive you apply. Spread a bead of the recommended adhesive around the perimeter of the panel, about an inch in from the tape. Also run extras beads of adhesive across the back of the panel and around any built-ins (i.e., soap dish).
4. Remove the paper from the adhesive tape and set the first corner panel in place. Put one side in position and then apply pressure across the panel to the other side. Finally run your hands over the entire panel, pressing firmly to make sure the glue on the backside adheres to the wall. Install the second corner panel the same way.
5. Once the corners are installed, measure the distance between them, determine the center point and mark it on the tub. Now measure the center panel from the kit to find its center point and mark that point on the panel itself.
6. Apply adhesive to the back of the center panel and remove the paper backing from the adhesive tape. Set the center panel in place by aligning the two centerlines. Press the lower part of the panel against the wall and slowly work your way up to the top, pressing the panel against the wall. Then, run your hands across the entire panel surface, pushing it against the wall.
7. The first side/end panel (the one opposite the plumbing fixtures) will be attached in the same manner as the center panel, except the edge of the panel will be aligned with the vertical reference line you established earlier.
8. You'll need to cut holes for the plumbing fixtures before installing the final end panel. Measure carefully from your vertical line to the center of the various fixtures, as well as from the bottom of the panel to the fixtures. Measure twice, then mark the locations on the panel. You might want to use a piece of cardboard as a trial template because you can't make a mistake when cutting holes for your fixtures.
9. Use a 1" spade bit to cut the holes for the spout. Cutting the larger hole for the faucet will likely be a two step process. Drill a starter hole and then use a Saber saw to cut it to size, or whats called a hole saw would work well also.
10. Once the holes are cut, apply adhesive, remove the paper backing from the tape and install the panel. Put the panel over the faucet and spout opening first, attach the bottom first, then work your way up to the top.
I hope this has helped you, If you have any questions you know where to find me.
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| Q: |
How do I get old paint off a tin shed and what is the best paint to use to repaint it? |
| A: |
If you want the paint completely gone you will need to sandblast (which can be messy) or you can us a power sander. If it is just flaking paint, simply remove the flakes. Then you will need to prime and paint. I would recommend a latex primer and a latex paint. If you have rust, It's going to look bad if you try and paint over that rust you will at least need to prep the rusted areas.
Thanks for the question,
Andy Love
Ask the Expert
Home Improvement.
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|
| Q: |
My home was built in 1970. The dining room has 4 mirrors with oval tops that appear to have been glued to the wall. I want to remove them. What is the best way to remove them? |
| A: |
Anita, the nice thing about drywall and plaster are that they are easily repaired. The only thing you can really do is get a wide pry bar, and try to pop them off. They may even be glued so well you will need to break them. That's 28 years bad luck if you believe in that sort of thing. You said your house was built in the 70's, which it should have drywall instead of plaster. You could cut the drywall by using a sharp utility knife and the mirrors will fall off with the drywall. Then you simply screw in new drywall tape, mud and paint.
Thanks for the great question,
Andy Love
Ask the Expert
Home Improvement
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|
| Q: |
When painting, is it better to use oil based primer then latex paint, or latex primer and oil based paint? |
| A: |
Oil base primer or oil base paint is very hard to work with. It smells bad and is hard to clean up afterwards. I would recommend latex primer and latex paint. If you have stains on the wall, oil base will seal the wall better so it will be less likely for the stains to show through. Hardware stores sell a 1.2.3. product that will hide some stains, but not bad ones. This holds true for exterior as well.
Thanks for the question,
Andy love
Ask the Expert.
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|
| Q: |
Hi there. My husband has been doing a little remodeling in our bathroom. He reminds one a little of Tim the Toolman Taylor, if that gives you an idea of how to project has been going. I need your help. He put in a new toilet and subflooring, but today I notice water leaking from the bottom of the toilet again! Please let me know what you think this might be caused by so that I can gently nudge him to the correct aisle at Home Depot or Lowe's. thanks! God Bless him, he means well but I'm afraid we're going to have another big mess on our hands! yikes! thanks, his Wife |
| A: |
If it's a new toilet, it's possibly something as
simple as the wax ring was not set right. You will
need to go to the wax ring aisle and ask for a wax
ring that has the rubber flange at the bottom. If you
put in a new floor, such as ceramic tile. That can
lift the floor up just enough that the wax ring is not
sealing, which means you will need to double the wax
ring, one with a flange goes on the bottom, the one
without on top. Also while you have the toilet pulled
look for a defect in the bottom of the toilet, where
maybe they molded it and didn't shave off enough
porcelain. I have also seen where hot water lines were
installed into the toilet making the toilet sweat with
moisture. Leaking down the side and creating the
illusion the toilet was leaking... That would be a Tim
Taylor mistake. Just don't let him glue his head to a
table.
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| Q: |
Upon looking at qconline I saw the Q&A regarding the $1500 government rebate fore windows. Do you know when the rebate expires or where I can find additional information about this. My husband and have been thinking about new windows but were planning on waiting a year or two. But with this rebate we may decide to do this earlier.
Thanks.
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| A: |
Sorry I'm just getting back to you. The rebate goes through 2010. Give me a call if you would like a free quote. If you Google energy rebate you will find information on all energy star products. The rebate isn't just for windows, it also includes furnaces, and anything else
that would be considered an upgrade to energy star. If you have a
fax machine I can fax the info to you as well.
Yours truly, Andy Love
309-373-2209
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| Q: |
What can you tell me about the $1500.00 government rebate I have been hearing about on windows? |
| A: |
Rick, not all windows will qualify for the new tax credit... I sell two qualifying lines, Target and Milgard. The window must meet a U-factor of .30 or less AND has Solar Heat Gain Coefficient of .30 or less THEN a 30% up to $1500.00 tax credit will apply. Tax credit applies to materials only. It does not apply to labor or sales tax. If you are pricing windows you must specify the above information. Before your company installs the windows the sticker on the window is what will need to be removed and submitted to your accountant.
Good question,
Andy Love
Ask the Expert
Home Improvement
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| Q: |
I want to redo my kitchen. I like my cupboards but they would need refinishing. I suspect parts of the doors are not real wood. How can I tell? Also my backsplash is one inch ceramic tiles. How difficult/messy would it be to remove them? My walls are lathe and plaster. |
| A: |
The kitchen cabinets usually have solid wood
fronts with particle board boxes. You can tell if it's
particle board by the texture of the wood. If you
don't see any wood grain and you only see particles of
wood held together with glue, that should be what you
see on the shelves and sides.
The doors may be a laminated particle board, you can
usually tell that by looking for cracks in the
laminate that are trying to pull away. Many home
centers offer a refinishing product for kitchen
cabinets that can be painted on. Or if you are feeling
really spunky, you could strip and re-stain. that
would involve pulling all the cabinets out and setting
up shop in the basement or garage.
Pull all the till off with a chisel and hammer. Just
scrape the wall and don't worry about damage to the
plaster. It's better to take more off until the wall
bumps won't move your putty knife as you go across.
Hold the blade at about a 45 degree angle at just let
the plaster or what ever product you use just fall
into the void area. Use a product called Smooth Set.
It comes in different setting times, I would use the
40 minute if I were you. It comes dry in a bag from
home centers for less than $10. Get a drywall knife
and drywall pan. Mix with water until you get a smooth
peanut butter consistency, then cover any holes in the
plaster. When it is dry, you can sand this product to
get any of the ridges left. You will end up with a
smooth wall. You can then prime and paint or
re-install new tile.
Hope that helps!
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| Q: |
Last year my house was so hot in the summer. I don't have cenral air, and I am thinking about installing a whole house fan as recommended by a friend. What can you tell me about them. |
| A: |
Jeff, whole house fans always remind me of a friend when I was growing up. His dad refused to spend money on air conditioning of any kind. One day he went to the Holiday Inn for a Bose sound radio presentation and came home with on of those Bose wave radios that cost over $1000.00. His family made fun of him for spending all that money on a radio while his family sat listening to it in a pool of sweat. He then broke down and bought the family a whole house fan to suck the air through the windows in the hot summer. My friend would bring it up when we would go to his house for parties, and have the whole room howling with laughter as everyone is dripping sweat, and his dad in the corner of the room messing with the Bose system, saying "would you listen to that sound quality" The whole house fans are a good Idea to draw the air through the house and into the attic. It also helps in cooling your attic to help extend the life of your roofing.
Thanks for the question,
Andy Love
Ask the Expert
Home Improvement
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| Q: |
I am interested in replacing my old basement windows with premaid glass block windows like the ones made by Pittsburgh Corning. Do you know of any dealers or installers in the Quad City area. |
| A: |
I have not personally heard of them, however I asked my concrete installer Brian Crane, and oddly enough they just contacted him last week asking if he would be interested in becoming an installer/distributor. I am looking into having Brian build me a display shower in my showroom to possibly sell them locally. I will give your number to Brian to get you a sales pamphlet, and an estimate for your project. The glass blocks sound like they are higher quality than what you find at the big box stores. We will get something for you.
Thanks for the question, Andy Love
Ask the Expert.
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| Q: |
I have a crawl space with a partial basement. Wanted to know if it is possible to dig it out and make a real basement. |
| A: |
Yes, it is possible, first the house will need to be
supported by the floor joists. Excavated to an 8' wall
height, new footings put in place and block put on top
of that. plan on spending around $20,000.00 to
$30,000.00 for a basic 1500 square foot ranch. Two
story homes are a little more tricky.
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| Q: |
I heard from a friend that granite counter tops have radiation or radon in it. Is this true, I just installed $15,000.00 worth of granite in my kitchen and bath. |
| A: |
You are right, some granites are radio active. I asked a representative for granite about the Radon, and she said "Only if you lay naked on it". My thought was "I am only eating my breakfast, lunch, and dinner on it". Depending on the color is what research has shown, Red, Pinks, and Purples seem to be the worst. You can have your granite tested. With a PalmRad or a home test kit to have it sent in and analyzed. If you do have Radon it can cause lung cancer and be really bad for pregnant women. There are alternatives to granite, if you like the look. I know a guy that can duplicate the look of granite for half the cost using concrete, dyes and very hard epoxies. Let me know if you would like the phone number.
Thanks for the question, good luck.
Very yours truly, Andy Love
Ask the Expert.
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| Q: |
I have an exterior brick chimney that needs to be rebuilt or repaired. I have had very little success getting masonary contractors to return calls or give me estimates. Do you know any good masonary contractors I could contact for this? |
| A: |
Call Jeff at 309... , he has done several tuck pointing jobs for us here at QCGeneral. Tell him Andy sent you.
Thanks for the question,
Andy Love
Ask the Expert.
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| Q: |
I am looking for a telescopic flag and pole kit in the QCA area |
| A: |
Jennifer Layer at Regalia of Rock Island has those
www.regaliamfg.com If they do not have it in stock
they can order it. Or you can call them at
309-788-7471 , e-mail is jennifer@regaliamfg.com .
Tell them Andy Love sent you from Ask the Expert. If
you need someone to install it, I don't know if they
can do that too. Otherwise call me at 309-373-2209 .
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| Q: |
Do you know a "small jobs plumber" I have a tub with a diverter for a handheld shower that I just installed, and now my handles leak. |
| A: |
You don't need a plumber for that. The reason your handles are leaking is because the new diverter added extra pressure on the rubber seals in the hot and cold handles. Usually you can expect to change those out about every two to three years, (with your new shower diverter) What you need is a screw driver, a pair of pliers, about $10.00 and an hour of your time. First look behind the wall that the faucet is on for two shut off valves, (usually silver), Turn them off. If you can't find them you can always turn off the water at the main, located in the basement right where the water lines enter the house, follow the pipes coming off your water heater. Pop the two plastic caps of the hot and cold plastic shower handles. Use the screw driver to back out the screws in the handles. After that you should see brass fittings. Grab the valves one at a time with the pliers and pull straight towards you. Take both of those to your local hardware store and tell them you need new seats, and O rings. Then do everything I just said in reverse. Make sure no one needs to take a shower during this process. If you still don't feel comfortable, a plumber can do all of these things for you, just don't let him talk you into tearing out your whole shower, because it's not necessary.
Thanks for the question
Very yours truly,
Andy Love
Ask the Expert
Home Improvement
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| Q: |
Hi,
I just stumbled upon your website googling a totally unrelated topic. What a nice surprise to find someone local who offers a service such as yours.
I own rental properties in RI. I have a REALLY hard time finding decent handymen. Most people who claim to know how to fix everyday minor household repairs either do not know how to fix things correctly, or they cost an arm and a leg, or both. I consider minor household repairs to range from replacing older window weight pulls and locks, repairing loose stair handrails, kitchen drawers, replacing a storm door, uncolgging a sink, repairing a running toilet, replacing broken glass, or a light switch. You know, anything that would be on a "HONEY DO" list, nothing major that would require a licensed contractor. Could you recommend any GOOD handymen in RI or Moline that would range between $15-$20 per hour? In 15 years, I have tried many, many so called handymen and wasted tons of time and $$--- only found TWO that knew what they were doing most times. I could give a long list of handymen (and licensed contractors as well) who aren't worth trying.
thanks alot
Dawn
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| A: |
It is rare to find a "Jack of all trades" as the say "Jack of all trades, and master of none." They are out there, QCGeneral is more of network of guys that specialize in there own area of expertise. Many of the guys I deal with are considered higher end skilled laborers. The people I think you are looking for are located in the classifieds. The guys that work for themselves, don't want big jobs, and they will usually list "small jobs only." You have to be careful with those guys though, really look at their business card. Check to see if they list their address on the business card they give you. If there is an address, is it a P.O. Box. Does he list his last name on the card or is it just JOHN. It has been my experience that if these guys don't want you to find them, there is usually a reason. Go to www.qcgeneral.com/client/view_category.php?catid=90 this link is on QCGeneral.com under Iowa and Small Plumbing. His name is Bryan Briggs, 563-508-6866 , he loves small jobs, I believe he is retired. Tell him Andy from QCGeneral sent you. He is out of Bettendorf but I am sure he will come to Moline or Rock Island for you.
Thanks for the Question,
Yours truly, Andy Love
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| Q: |
Generally, how much does it cost to put in an egress window? How much value does it add to your home? |
| A: |
Some things you want to check first are to check your
local building codes to make sure your finished head
room is in the basement does not fall below the
required height for a livable space. Usually that
finished height is 84". The sole purpose for an egress
is for an escape route in a livable space in the
basement including a bedroom. Prices can range from
$1000.00 to $3000.00 depending on the egress window
itself. That includes excavation, egress window,
egress well, back-fill and cap. The egress window may
not add a whole lot to the value, but the finished
basement could see a 25-35% return on your investment.
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| Q: |
why is a building permit required other than to raise your taxes. |
| A: |
This is a question that is very important. The building permit is in place for several good reasons, and yes although you are right, your taxes can increase. Not in all cases do taxes increase. Your taxes will increase if you put an addition on, or remodel a bathroom, and or kitchen. If you replace your roof, siding, and or windows they will not increase. Some good things about a permit and the building inspectors that go with them are as follows: Do you recall a few years ago the decks that were falling because too many people partying on decks that were built incorrectly. If a permit was pulled and the inspection process was completed, the key issues would have been addressed by the inspector. The items include but not limited to, footing inspection, load ratings, and spindles placed on 4" on center so children can't fall through. For the most part permits and inspections are in place for your protection. They are also there so your neighbor can't put some huge addition that blocks your view. Permits and codes will also require your neighbor to put a fence up around his pool so children and dogs can't fall in. Another good thing is that your building inspectors require your contractors to be licensed, bonded and insured in order to pull permits. A home owner can also pull permits to complete a project on his or her own home. Many inspectors get a bad reputation because they do require things to be done correctly, and it usually ends up costing more to redo things. It's best to open up the lines of communication early on in the project so the inspectors can take a look at the project, and throw up any red flags. Great question!
Yours truly, Andy Love
Ask the Expert
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| Q: |
I recently hired a licensed tree service to remove a large tree in my back yard and to do the clean up after. I paid for part of the job up front and then after the tree was downed and prior to the clean up I paid the rest (I now realize I should have waited until after to pay up). He came and picked up all of the big stuff but then his truck and equipment got repossessed. Whenever I call the guy he is working on using a friend's truck or having someone else come pick this all up. Meanwhile, this has all been left in my back yard for three weeks now. First question, when these guys are "licensed" who is this with? Is it a state licensing body, county, city? Also, do I have any recourse here considering I have (stupidly)prepaid for a service that has not been performed?
Thanks
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| A: |
I am sorry to hear you have been treated this way. The service industry has once again shown that it needs improvement. The most basic rule was broken never ever pay a contractor in full until all items on the contract, (if this gentleman even had one written up for you) are completed to your satisfaction. I am not sure which city you are in, each one is a little different. In the city of Rock Island you must pay a $50.00 licensing fee, show proof of insurance and bond. I would call the city, and request proof of licensing, and let the city know about his actions. They will fine him if he is practicing within the city without a license. You might contact your lawyer and inquire about firing off a letter to try and persuade him to finish the job. The only other option would be small claims court. You could also pay to have the job finished and use those costs as the basis for your claim. I hope this helps, let me know how it comes out.
Very yours truly, Andy Love
Ask the Expert
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| Q: |
My house is sinking in the center. I had a basement waterproofing contractor tell me it was because the lower half of the foundation was being forced in a little more every winter by the frozen ground, while the outer walls were following the upper half of the foundation out. I didn't buy this and figured he was concentrating on his own specialty. I was sure the center beams had to be refooted and he shrugged and said he could do that too. What sounds logical to you? What type of contractor should I get for this job? |
| A: |
I would really like to see it before I form a conclusion. 42" and below the ground is not being effected by frost heaving and retracting with the seasons. Most basements are 7-8' deep. It may be something as easy as mud jacking, or it could be something as complicated as a sink hole. Give me a call, I and possibly two of my most experienced gentlemen will come over and give you our best assessment. |
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| Q: |
Can you recommend any structural engineers that practice in the state of Illinois? Thanks |
| A: |
Ryan, There are very few in the Quad Cities area. Most people have to make a trip to Chicago. However, Italo Milani Architect PC. 2801 12 ave Rock Island, IL 309-788-5100 . He has been practicing in this area for many years. Ask him to see his Bowling Alley in his basement, very cool!!
Thanks for the question, Andy Love
Ask the Expert
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| Q: |
We have a porch that needs a new roof, windows and the foundation fixed. Would it be better/cheaper to replace/fix these things or just tear the whole thing off and start over? |
| A: |
Thanks for the question. It's always cheaper to repair. However there are different levels of repair. You can go with basic materials like 3-tab shingles instead of Architectural, Single hung windows instead of double hung. The one thing that concerns me is the word FOUNDATION. As in everything in life you need a strong foundation. There are techniques out there that can save foundations. Such as Mid American Basement and Waterproofing, and Todd's Mudjacking both have a system that is like an auger/ drill bit that goes down and finds solid ground, then attaches to the foundation only to be reversed to put the proper pressure on the concrete walls to lift them back into place. Some of the houses in Davenport that I have come across are literally boulders and mud all packed together. In those cases that would be grounds for starting over. The foundation is the key, really look that over, because the lumber and sheathing above that foundation can be easily replaced during a remodel.
Very yours truly, Andy Love
Ask the Expert Home Improvement
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| Q: |
My husband and I are building a house and I am really interested in using bamboo flooring because of the "green" concept; however, I am having difficulties finding reviews of different manufacturers. What are some quality manufactured bamboo products? Or where can I go to find this information. |
| A: |
There is no question that bamboo is a renewable resource- it is a grass and grows very quickly. Some species grow over 100' tall, and can have a growth rate of 4 ft in one day! You can actually see it growing like corn on a hot summer night. Where oak takes 120 years to grow to maturity, bamboo can be harvested in three. It is recognized as a green material under LEED. Leed even says "Environmentally, it's hard to argue with a wood substitute that matures in three years, regenerates without need for replanting, and requires minimal fertilization or pesticides."
I myself have heard good and bad for durability and hardness. I think if I were you, I would purchase a product that has a good warranty, and is made by a reputable flooring manufacturer.
If it's the "green" aspect you are shooting for your selection is larger than just bamboo. Although, bamboo is becoming more popular. Mohawk flooring company is one of the more committed to environmental leadership. Mohawk produces 75% pre-comsumed recycled content. Mohawk estimates that they keep 680 million pounds of material out of landfill. One billion pounds is the weight of the wood waste reused in Mohawk laminate. Mohawk also plants six times the trees that they harvest, saving the destruction of forestry. On top of that the sawdust produced at their mills gets turned into fuel for their plants. Mohawk can be found at most any flooring store, I know Troy West at All Floors on 23rd ave of the cities behind Sherwin Williams in Moline has a huge selection. www.mohawk-flooring.com has a website with some information. Hope this helps.
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| Q: |
I have a section of sofit that keeps coming up, when the wind blows hard. It doesn't completely fall out, there's a L channel agaist the house that seems to be bent outword. Any Idea's? |
| A: |
You will need to get some white stainless steel trim nails. Get the Stainless Steel, because the aluminum will just keep bending on you. Instead of lifting the fascia and putting the soffit behind the L. Simply nail the soffit in place up into the wood fascia, and face nail the aluminum fascia cap back in place. This will fix your situation, you will never have to worry about it again.
Thanks for the question, Andy Love
Ask the Expert
QCGeneral.com
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| Q: |
We have a built in desk in our kitchen with an electrical outlet and phone outlet on the wall above the desk. I would like to have both placed on the wall under the desk and a hole drilled into the top of the desk in a corner to feed cords through. Do you have a reccomendation of someone that could do this and an idea of what kind of cost to expect? Thanks! |
| A: |
I have paid service calls ranging from $50.00 to $420.00, and the jobs took the same amount of time. I won't tell you the phone number to the more expensive company. But I will give the number to Kurt who is priced more reasonably; his number is 309-798-3559 . Tell him Andy sent you.
Thanks, Andy
Ask the Expert
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| Q: |
The radon levels in my basement are above 5. We spend a lot of time there in the winter even though it is not finished. What options are available to eliminate the radon. I read about a coating that can be applied to the floor so would like to know about that also. |
| A: |
There is a system installed by Professional House Doctors inc. 563-285-6454 or 1-888-2... . I have seen this system in quite a few homes around the area. The system has a 3-inch PVC tube vented the same as your water heater and furnace. They cut a hole in the concrete floor of your basement and place this pipe in the hole and up through your roof. They then re-pour concrete around the tube. What it does is create a ventilation draw, like a path of least resistance for the radon to follow safely up and out. I don't believe you will need to paint the walls or anything else. I am not sure what the expense would come to, but if you give them a call, tell them Andy from "Ask the Experts" gave you their number. Good luck, if you have any other questions let me know. |
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| Q: |
I will be installing a new high efficiency furnace in my house and will no longer have a need for my chimney. As I could use the space that the chimney occupies in my house, who can I call to take my chimey out of my house and repair the hole left in my roof and floors below? |
| A: |
Before you continue make sure your water heater is also direct vent out the side of the house. I don't know of one gut that can do it all, but here is a list of people I deal with on a daily basis. If you need a price on the high efficiency furnace give Bob Richards a call at 309-370-4895 . Call Jeff Goodnight @ 309-373-1041 to remove the chimney and haul away, Call Mark Griffin @ 309-292-0271 to repair the roof, and call Kristian with black Tie Flooring @ 309-764-1904 for the repair of the Flooring. Or you can call me and I can organize all of it for you.
Hope this helps, good question.
Yours truly, Andy
Ask the Expert.
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| Q: |
We are almost done tearing off our roof, and I was wondering where people take their shingles for recycling? If there is anywhere in the QC?. |
| A: |
Scott county landfill will recycle those for you, 563.381.1300. You have to separate the shingles from any wood or other material, you can leave the nails in there. 11555 110th Avenue, (County Road Y-48) Davenport, IA 52804.
Good question,
Yours truly, Andy Love
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| Q: |
If I'm considering buying a lot that is on a high water table or building an addition on a high water table, what are the things I should be considering? |
| A: |
You're not building on wetlands are you? Just kidding.
A water table can be defined as the upper surface of groundwater or the level below which the soil is saturated with water. This level may fluctuate by several feet throughout the year, depending on soil conditions, landscape, or weather. When selecting a new homesite, consider the level of the seasonal high water table. In many areas of Illiois and Iowa the seasonal high water table may be at or near the ground surface for long periods. If the water table is six feet deep or more, high water table problems will be minimal. When building a new house in an area with a seasonal high water table that is less than six feet from the surface, a sump pump with a system of foundation drains should be used to lower the water table. Create a good outlet for discharge flow from the pump and consider where you direct this water.
Your don't want to create problems for a neighbor! If the home is already built, install gravel and drains around the base of the outside walls. Lowering the water table under the basement floor should be done only after analysis by experts, since unequal settlement may crack the walls. In lawn areas affected by a high water table, a small excavated pond, a wetland garden, or collection of water-loving plants may be a suitable remedy. Transform the nuisance wet area into an attractive landscaping feature.
Provisions of the federal Clean Water Act or state and local laws may apply to persons who propose to alter any wetlands or to dredge, dig, or fill in floodplain areas. For clarification or more info contact the U.S.
Army Corps of Engineers or IDNR's Office of Water Resources prior to any earthmoving activities.
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| Q: |
Is there anyone in the quad cities that recycles vinyl siding? |
| A: |
There is one company in the Quad Cities that will take vinyl siding. www.citycarton.com City Carton in Davenport, 4002 Kimmel Drive, 1-800-369-6112 ext 142 Brian Holtz. Siding must be clear of nails, insulation, wood and any other foreign objects. The other requirement is you must have at least 500 lbs The average sized house should be close to 500 lbs, if it was a repair job, most likely you would not have enough. That was a great question.
Thanks, Andy Love
Ask the Expert.
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| Q: |
Hi Mr. Love. After the recent storms we noticed our roof has an area that is missing about 8 shingles. The roof (it's a two-story house) is very steep and I need to hire someone to replace the shingles. However, when I started calling area roofing companies, I discovered that, while they were all willing to give me an estimate on an entire new roof, they were not interested and would not do any patching jobs like mine. So who should I call to help me out? I would even be glad to buy the shingles if I could just find someone with the knowledge and skill and climbing ability to properly install the shingles for me before the winter snows set in! Thank you in advance for your advise and recommendations. |
| A: |
Give Solis Roofing a call. I just called and left a message with Raul Solis. I have known him from my days of working at Menards. He used to run full roofing crews, but stepped away and only did repairs, for a while I think he was having trouble keeping good help, but not sure. Last I heard he is back to a full service roofing crew. He is Licenced, Bonded and Insured, and very good at what he does, he called me back while I was writing this, and I gave him your number.
Thanks for the question,
Andy Love
Ask the Expert
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| Q: |
What would you recommend for insulation in 6-inch walls? I would like to use a material that is not harmful to the environment during the production and installation,and eventually could be reused if necessary. |
| A: |
I highly recommend Cellulose insulation.
Cellulose, is made from recycled newspapers, and is densely packed between studs on new construction homes. Cellulose is made from recycled wood fiber of news print ... primarily newspaper. Ever see stacks of newspaper in people's garage and wonder why they are saving them? They are one of the big reasons we have cellulose. One hundred pounds of cellulose insulation contains 80 to 85 pounds of recycled newsprint. The remainder is made up of Borax and Boric acid, both non-toxic fire retardants and helps with mold resistance.
This is a truly "green" product in my opinion, I don't know if it is recognized by LEED. The demand for this must stay up or recycling itself could go to the curbside. I had breakfast with Dewey from Dewco Insulation the other day, and he does nothing but blown in Cellulose. After talking with him, it sounds like demand is up, right now.
If you choose cellulose insulation you help solve the waste disposal problem and help fight air pollution. Not to mention it's cheaper than fiberglass. This may help your community hold down taxes or refuse disposal charges. It certainly contributes to a cleaner environment.
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| Q: |
Hello, we need help with our project.
We have a small home (792sqft) in Bettendorf that we bought about 3 years ago. We gutted most of it, and are now in over our heads.. I have spent countless hours on the phone trying to get estimates scheduled, waiting for contractors to return my calls, waiting to get the bid in the mail.. only to get outrageous quotes or shoddy work. We are in desperate need of help. I am looking for someone to take over and get this house done so we can move on with our lives.. We are not looking for anything fancy. Our budget is small but reasonable, our expectations are basic, we just want a completed house. Can you help or or recommend someone who can?
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| A: |
If any of these contractors you called, are not calling you back, and are posted on QCGeneral.com, I would like to know about it. In the mean time give John a call from Big River he is the only other full-service contractor I know in the area. I know of a few others, but have not had any personal experience with them. John's number is (309)314-1155 . Let me know how that turns out.
Very yours truly, Andy
Ask the Expert
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| Q: |
On Saturdays radio show the hardware guy recomended putting ladies nylons filled with salt, and heat cables zig zagged accross the roof to combat ice damns. I thought that was pretty creative, what are your thoughts? |
| A: |
I don't feel that's such a great idea. Salt is really bad for any thing because of it's curosive nature. The reason you have ice damns is because the heat in the house is rising through the attic and melting the snow. Once that water reaches the eaves or overhangs where there is no heat it freezes again. What you want to do is insulate. Not only will it save you on energy bills, it will prolong the life of your roof.
Yours truly, Andy Love
Ask the expert
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| Q: |
I want to expand my basement bathroom and will have to move some pipes and the towel. Who can I call to do this? |
| A: |
I have been hearing really good things about John Miller from Big River Construction. Here is a link to his business card, just highlight, right click, copy and past this in your address bar up at the top of your screen. www.qcgeneral.com/client/business_view.php?id=121 If you like I can pass on your e-mail address, but only with your ok to do so.
Thanks,
Andy Love
Ask the Expert
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| Q: |
I'm interested in using FSC wood in the construction of my addition. FSC wood is taken from closely managed sustainable forests safeguarding the habitat. Is there a local distributor? |
| A: |
Not too many people know this, but anyone who sells Tembec Lumber; if you look at the tag on the bunk of lumber it will tell you the percentage of FSC lumber. Tembec is 100% FSC (on the bunks that I have seen.) Mike Kruse from Menards in Davenport is one that helped educate me on FSC. They may have some on hand, and can special order extra quantities, you must specify with them. You can't get plywood as of yet, but you can get 2x4's 2x6's etc. |
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| Q: |
We are thinking of having our attic and walls insulated with the blown in insulation. Do you recommend anyone? |
| A: |
Hold the phone! Before you get the work done, have Mid America evaluate your home for energy efficiency. Based on your situation you can receive up to 70% rebate back. So, say your estimate for insulation comes back at $1,000, Mid America will rebate back $700. I am in the process of having my home done, and they are currently scheduling for October. Call 1-800-545-0762 for Mid Americas evaluation, and call Gary Mascho with Mascho's Insulation, to give you a bid on your house. Very nice guy and very reasonably priced.
Thanks, great question,
Andy Love
Ask the Expert
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| Q: |
I was wondering if you could point me in the right direction. We have a lovely old furniture set of my husband's parents, grandma's chair,loveseat and ottoman. They are really cofy but from the 70's. All I want to do is re-cover them. I talked with a local uphoslterer and he said it would be about $1800 at a base price. does this seem reasonable?? |
| A: |
I am not sure about that price. Give George a call at 309-631-1063 , he has been doing it a long time, and could get you a fair price.
Thanks, Andy
Ask the Expert.
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| Q: |
Is it possible to recycle asphalt shingles here in the Quad-Cities? If so,where? |
| A: |
The Scott County Landfill will take shingles. Call first to let them know you're coming. They have been having a problem with roofers sending them loads with a little of everything in them. Make sure you don't throw your wood in the mix. It is much easier for them if you send a load of just shingles. |
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| Q: |
I need mud jacking done on our pool apron or a new one installed before we close it this year - who can do this? |
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Mudjacking would surely be the cheaper route. The only thing you have are approximately 2" visible holes where the sludge needs to be pumped in. I have two mudjackers at www.QCGeneral.com, and several concrete companies. Go to the website and choose Iowa or Illinois if you have a preference. Find concrete, and click on the link. You will see a series of business cards give them a call for a free estimate. I have business relations with Crane and River Valley for concrete and both do a fantastic job and have reasonable rates to boot. Both also do stamped concrete which is the new thing now. It gives a really rich look to sidewalks, patios and drive ways. If you register with QCGeneral you can view pictures in their guestbook. If you do decide to hire one of the companies on QCGeneral, be sure to take pictures of your project, and post it on their guestbook to share with the rest of the Quad Cities.
Let me know how it works for you.
Sincerely, Andy Love
Ask the Expert
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| Q: |
I want to install a water treatment device in a house on the river, occupied year round. This house has a well and currently no water treatment at all. Where do I go to get a sample of the water treated? How do I determine if I need a whole house filter, a water conditioner or something else? |
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Water treatment systems can come in many different varieties. Most home centers carry anything, point-of-use water treatment, (such as under the sink) are typicle. They also have reverse osmosis that can take everything out, even the good stuff the body needs ... yes it's possible for your water to be too clean. You can also find the Whole House units that you would tap in at the entrance in the basement just before your water heater. I recommend a proper plumber do the installation. There are many benefits...
Towels can be cleaner and softer, you won't need harsher detergents to wash clothes, and can cause more foaming in your baths. Extended life for appliances, faucets and pipes, your water heater will be more efficient, change the taste and odor of your ice cubes, and water for cooking. These are just a few of the benefits of having your water treated. If you are worried about cost? These systems can pay for themselves, usually in five years. The one that I have had some personal experience with is Eco Water QCA 309-736-0646 , or www.ecowater.com. They will come out and test your water right in front of you, and let you know the best path.
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| Q: |
I have a stationary (non-opening) picture type window that gets water in the frame when it rains. Water puddles on a surface between the frame and window. There isn't any evidence of water coming in around the window. We have removed the trim and it has always been dry around the window. It is a vinyl window and I would like it replaced. It is in a bathroom area and is contructed to look like blocks of obscure glass. It is 34" square. I don't want a new window to be installed like a replacement window. It currently has j-channel around the outside. It is also on the 3rd level above the ground (second story above an exposed basement). This is one reason for not wanting a replacement type window as we don't want to be concerned with caulk in an area that is not easily accessible. the house is 4 years old and we don't have any idea who manufactured the window if there would be any kind of guarantee on it. How do I get a window and have it installed like new construction? |
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The two differences between a new construction window and a replacement is the nailing fin on the exterior and the finished interior trim. The nailing fin is present in new construction and cut off in replacement applications, same with the trim. The window components are identical. If you want a new construction window be prepared to remove the j-trim and siding on the exterior. I think you have a drip cap missing above the window or the window has failed in some way. If you contact the builder of your home, he will know the manufacturer. Check the rest of the windows; sometimes they put their name on the inside around the glass. That window needs to be diagnosed by the manufacturer so you can receive the proper service. The builder should also back up his work in the construction process. Either way you should be covered, especially with the house only being only 4 years old. Water in any form is not good inside the house. If you have an attic, crawl up there and see if its coming in at a point higher than that window, like a gable vent, or an overhang. I think it's odd that a new construction window along with the fact that it's a fixed (non-opening) window is leaking. If you can reach it, spray it down with a hose to see if it is an exterior problem. You would be surprised at the number of cases I get that includes condensation from the bathroom. Let me know.
Thanks for the question.
Andy Love
Home Improvement
Ask the Expert.
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| Q: |
Good morning,
My wife I are thinking of getting a house and my dream is to install the solar energy system. Do you have any idea of the actual cost for three bedroom( basic appliances) and what company to contact?
Thanks Andy
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I contacted Energy Efficient Products, Jay Flaherty 563-359-3260 , I contacted them and they will be giving you a call. Price is dictated by Energy Star appliances, other materials that will tighten up the house such as insulation, windows with low-e argon between the double pane glass, position of the roof pitch, positioning of the roof. (Does it face south or southwest?) These are keys to getting an assessment to make the most of each house. Unfortunately these systems are not cookie cutter yet. The technology is getting better and better each day and with each new system installed. You can consider yourself part of a new frontier helping pave the way to a cleaner earth. Great question!!
Thanks, Andy
Ask the Expert
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| Q: |
I want to remodel my house. Do I start with a contractor or an architect? |
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If you have the extra money and your plans are that involved the best way would be to go through an Architect. He will not only design the layout, he will also be aware of any load bearing walls and roof loads that would have to be addressed.
Plus, he will over see the building itself. The word architect comes from the Latin meaning architectus, which is also derived from the Greek word arkhitekton or "chief builder."
The difference between a contractor and architect, is the contractor will never win a Pritzker Prize. This is the most prestigious of awards, it's like the equivalent of the Nobel Prize. An architect is on a whole different playing field. Also, an architect will probably show up when he says he will.
Even the word architect means to bring order to a build or non-build situation.
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| Q: |
I have a square two story house 648 sq ft each level, a one car garage with breeze way, and a standard front porch and one dormer. For just a standard tear off and reroof for the three surfaces what would be a rough estimate for that job? |
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A base price is about $210.00 per square (100 square feet). That includes labor and materials. Factors that would increase that price is two story or one story, penetrations (chimney, vent stacks, dormers), multiple layers. If you have a three layer tear off you most likely will need a re-sheet, that includes removing all layers and putting down1/2" OSB or plywood. This is necessary when you have over 1/4" gaps between the 1x6's on the roof. If the front porch has a low pitch roof, you can't use standard shingles, anything below 3/12 pitch needs role roofing or a torch down. Depending on the roof it can cost as much as 300+ dollars a square. Let me know if you need any help estimating, it's free.
Thanks for the question,
Andy Love
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I have a chimney going up the center of my two story house, can I remove that and whats the best way? |
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A couple of things you need to check first. See if you furnace and water heater are direct vent. This means the vent is coming up out of both units in white pvc plastic piping and going horizontally direct to the outside wall. What you most likely will find is that they both vent up vertically through chimney. If they are venting through the chimney then you can have an accessory direct vent added to both units that turn on when the units turn on. Once that is done, the best way to remove the chimney is from the roof down. Or you can add vertically class B piping in the place of the brick chimney, but you will still have a roof penetration. Hope this helps
Yours truly, Andy
Ask the Expert.
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| Q: |
Can you paint over siding |
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You sure can. I saw it done once on 27th ave and 44th st in Rock Island. The siding was still wet with paint when I drove by, and it looked like it was ready to come off of the house. It was buckling and looked horrible. But a few nights later it was Halloween and we went by the same house and when the lady answered I asked her if this was the same siding, and she said yes. Once it dried it layed down. She made the comment that it was an insurance job, due to warranty issues of the siding fading. The manufacturer paid to have the siding painted to fix the problem. The end product looked great I was amazed. If you like I can get the address from you and have you drive by to look at it, and possibly knock on the door to see who the insurance company hired. I do know that some home improvement companies now carry paint that will adhere to the vinyl siding. It is a specialty item but can be done, but has to be done just right.
Call me if you like at 309-373-2209
Thanks, Andy Love
Ask the Expert
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| Q: |
Can you tell me who in the Quad Cities does the cut-away bathtubs where it is partially cut out and a door is added to the tub (cast iron w/ enamel) that makes it accessible for those who can no longer climb in and out of the bathtub? |
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I have not found a company that will cut away the tub itself and guarantee it to be used as a tub. The Tub doors would be susceptible to leakage. I did find a company that will install a new unit for between $8,000 and $12,000, depending on the situation. Bath Concepts 2330 Spruce Hills Dr.
Bettendorf. Their phone number is 563-344-9138 . I hope this helps.
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| Q: |
My blacktop drive was re-surfaced this spring. The contractor wanted to seal it the same day, I declined. When should the new blacktop be sealed & what type of product should be used? |
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You were wise to not allow him to seal that. Many people dread the task of driveway maintenance and they want to rush the process. It takes 30-days to allow the oils to settle in and dry out. Hopefully you didn't have any cracks that needed to be filled before the resurfacing, because that step too needs a wait time for drying and settling. As far as the sealer, all home improvement stores have some form of sealer; they all claim to be the best. One universal truth though is not to go cheap on your sealer, get the most expensive one, and follow the label to a tee for procedure. Those types of products fall in the "you get what you pay for" arena. Gierke-Robinson Co
3929 W River Dr Davenport. (563) 322-1725 has the best products for sealing.
I wouldn't use a pressure washer to clean it off after the 30-days. Go to the hardware store and in the garden hose isle, get an attachment that looks like a cone, made of brass or plastic. It has a 1/4 inch hole that allows the water to come out at the perfect pressure, and is best for not being to hard on concrete and blacktop. It may take a little longer, but the end product will be better.
Hope this helps,
Sincerely, Andy Love
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| Q: |
I saw your answer about converting a crawl space to a basement, but what if it's only one room under the house? 13'x23" on one end? |
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A good rule of thumb is about $35 a square foot. Yours may come in cheaper because the whole house will not have to be braced up. I saw a truck on my street this morning excavating around a basement and they would most likely be able to accommodate you, Crane Masonry 563... . Good luck, and good question. |
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| Q: |
I am looking for polymeric sand to lay over my brick patio. Is there anywhere in the Quad Cities to purchase this product?
Thanks Sue
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Menards has that, go to the back building materials desk by the bathrooms. Tell them you want sku number 189-1155. It covers 48 square foot of patio blocks spaced at approximately 1/4". On sale for $6.99, off sale it's $10.99, sale ends on 07/27/08. It fills the voids between your block and prevents weeds from coming through.
Thanks for the question,
Andy Love
QCGeneral
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| Q: |
We purchased a new mannufactured home and placed it on our own property. We are concerned that the furnace/ac is working too hard and very little air comes out some registers. It is a sectional and we know we are getting some air to both sides. Any suggestions as to who to call to come and look at the system? We have a crawl space under the home on a permanent foundation. Thanks... |
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If you log on to www.QCGeneral.com find UTILITIES at the bottom and click on 'Air Conditioning' Precision Air is the name of the business card. Keith Sheldon, 563-285-9510 . Tell them Andy Love sent you. He can find out what's going on with the system. It is the middle of the cooling system, so you may get put on a schedule, but he can take care of you.
Thanks, Andy
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| Q: |
Are there any companies who still do high pressure washing of vinyl siding on homes in the Quad City area? |
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Absolutely. Give my friend, Greg a call at (309) 283-0402 . He owns First Class Window Cleaning. I just talked with him, and he said he would be more than happy to meet with you. |
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| Q: |
We just had a new garage built and would like to have an Epoxy floor. Could you give us the name of local contractors, so we could compare prices? |
| A: |
You have some options with that system. First the Epoxy is one route to take, Rustoleum makes a product that can either be put right down, or the concrete may need to be etched first. That means if you have a really smooth finish on your concrete the surface will need to be etched with a chemical to ensure good adhesion. The etched version should run you about $3-$4 a square foot. For a non etched it should run you about $2.50 a square foot. My friend Jason Wheeler can do that, and his number is (309) 558-8844 . It's not a cheap system, but looks great in finished garages with good lighting. It's an item you see in themed garages, like Nascar, I saw a Ferarri themed garage once that was unbelievable. Materials for a standard 24x24 garage can run about $160.00 found at most hardware stores. Labor depending on prep work can run around $1,200-$2,100.
Another option would be to go with the commercial grade rubber mates that can be driven on and taken up, even replaced if needed. Tim Shelton can give you some information on that and pricing, his number is (309) 314-1875 . I hope this helps, tell them Andy sent you from QCGeneral.
Thanks for the great question.
Andy Love
Ask the Expert
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| Q: |
Where can I get a load of dirt to fill in a hole created by a tree I had taken down in my front yard?? |
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Give me a call at 309-373-2209 I can have one sent out for you.
Thanks, Andy
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| Q: |
I have an exposed basement house that has concrete poured walls on 3 sides and wood on the exposed back wall. The house is about 30 years old and has had a crack in the concrete virtually from the time it was constructed. The crack is about 15 ft back from the exposed corner. The crack is getting larger (but has never leaked), and has caused a crack in the upper level plaster as well as a cracked pane and a wavy back exterior wall. One firm said that the corner of the house had sank 3", that they could use piers to stablize it--but they didn't do wall replacement. On top of that, the site isn't big enough for heavy equipment. Any ideas who is very proficient at this type of a job? |
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Have you tried to contact a mudjacker? Call Todd at Todd's Mudjacking www.toddsmudjacking.com 309-496-1463 . he may have a solution for you. I would start with that. If the foundation needs re-built I would call Brian at Crane Masonry, 563-579-2472 for the foundation and/or repair work. For the Drywall or Plaster repair I would call Ken Cherry at 309-737-7423 . If there are structural issues within the wall I would call Mark Griffin at 309-292-0271 . Mark is actually fully capable of being the general on the job for you if that's more convenient.
I hope this helps,
Andy Love
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| Q: |
Is it possible to put siding on a stucco house? My stucco's the real deal, built in the 1930's with a brick colored hollow block underneath the stucco... |
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You have what contractors would most likely run from. Some stucco can be covered with other siding with the use of furring strips and tap cons, as long as there is something to nail to, and you get a tight seal around the entire perimeter of the siding. The bottom, especially would need a custom bent flashing. But, to have a stucco on top of brick, I don't know of a contractor in the area that would back that application with a guarantee. If comparing a smooth stucco with a large rock or course stucco that makes the situation even worse. Some of those rocks can be uneven by as much as a 1/2 inch.
Sorry I didn't have a more positive answer for you.
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| Q: |
I am considering relocating my gas grill outside. there is existing pipe, but it woudl need to be redone and rerouted to move the girll. Do you have to have someone professionally do this? |
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Yes, that can be done by Tracey with Quad City Plumbing, 309-314-1228 .
Sounds like some basic excavation, and some gas pipe work. I would make sure you use a professional on that one; you don't want to take a chance with gas lines. Tracey is a true professional.
Thanks for the question,
Andy Love
Ask the Expert.
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| Q: |
I am a Southerner who has never even begun to understand a "basement." So bear me and my question. It appears our house was added onto, in doing so the concrete wall, or basement wall, was cut to run ducts, wires, etc ... and there is a crawlspace under the new addition, which is just a little family room maybe about 14 x 22 or so. The problem is, the ground under that new addition was just tarped and looks like some rocks were placed down. When it rains water collects and drains into the basement. How can I go about eliminating the drainage into the basement from the crawl space? |
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If the tarp is the culprit, it may be something as simple as removing it, and letting the water go into the ground and under the floor. It seems odd the water is actually getting on top of the tarp without a leak in the roof. In the midwest we have a lot of clay soil that can cause high water tables. If it's not coming in on top of the tarp, its probably coming in the walls. You may need to invest in a sump pit and pump. Also look at the exterior of that addition to make sure they backfilled the dirt properly. This allows any water to drain away from the foundation wall. Other water proofing systems are available that include cutting back 8-inches of the slab floor, and inserting a drain channel that also involves a sump pit. Let me know if this helps. Find the entry of water into the house and follow it back to the source.
Send more questions to us if you need to.
Thanks, and good luck.
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I have a house with an exposed basement, with that wall being wood. One wall of the poured wall has a crack that gets worse, with the corner of the house now 3 inches lower. To make matters worse, this is where a lot of heavy equipment wouldn't have access. Any ideas?? |
| A: |
Check the upstairs, windows and doors directly above the crack to check if it has affected the first and second floor. See if windows or doors are operating without rubbing or sticking. Look for cracks in the drywall. With that being said, the crack in the foundation may be difficult to excavate with heavy equipment, but could possible be accessible with some lighter equipment. If it's still a problem the good old shovel would be the end result. You could possibly have a footing that was not installed properly, and/or has failed. The footing is the base that goes beneath the wall to keep the wall from sinking. The house may need to be reinforced from the inside of the house. About two foot back from the direct exterior wall with posts and header to temporarily hold while the wall, footing are removed and re-installed. Give Brian Crane from Crane Masonry a call at 563-579-2472 , he is on QCGeneral.com under foundations and concrete. He gives free estimates if you don't feel comfortable doing this yourself, this would be a major project. If you do hire him don't forget to sign his guestbook. Finally be prepared to possibly be required by the city to get an engineered stamp to start the work. The city just wants to know that the loadings have been addressed, in case they were not addressed when the house was originally built. The person to contact for the engineered stamp would be Italo Milani he goes by Lo for short 309-269-6498 .
Good Luck!
Andy Love
Ask the Expert
Home Improvement
Visit us today at www.QCGeneral.com
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| Q: |
Andy-I need a recommendation for a chimney sweep that can clean out my Mom's chimney and install a chimney cap. Long story that includes a raccoon. Thanks much, Mike |
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Michael, I just got off the phone with John from Quad Cities Chimney Sweep. He is looking forward to your call. Contact him at (563)386-5597 . Hopefully no one was hurt. Good Luck!
Yours truly, Andy Love
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| Q: |
We recently noticed water dripping from a pipe in the basement. The pipe is the water supply to a toilet directly above the basement. The next morning we were going to fix it and noticed the pipe wasn't dripping anymore. We decided to wait and see what happened. A few days later it was dripping again. It had been raining and I am wondering if there is water coming in from the outside that is causing this. We have also discovered a vinyl non-opening window on the second story that leaks when rain hits that side of the house. Maybe there is a connection to the two leak problems. My question is what kind of person do I call to figure out where the pipe leak is coming from and if the window needs to be replaced or is not installed properly. We have been in this house four years and just noticed both problems in the last month. I am now waiting for the pipe to leak again to determine if this only happens when the rain hits directly on a certain side of the house. |
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It is possible for a small leak to get clotted with calcium, but not likely. For the window to be the culprit, that could be too far for water to flow. Water will follow the path of least resistance, try and follow the path before you caulk that window just to be sure. I would venture to say that the increased humidity in the air when it rains is causing some condensation on the water line of the toilet, or on the tank itself. I have a toilet that the tank will sweat with a fresh flush while the water is still cold, and a high humidity day. I would check to see if the tank is sweating as well, lift the back lid to the tank and see if someone in the past installed an insulation liner, (you will see a white 1" foam, like a minnow bucket or a foam cooler). The reason I say that is because if the insulation liner is installed the tank won't sweat on the sides but it will on the bottom of the tank. I can almost guarantee that it is nothing more than condensation dripping down. Water is not good in any form in the floor joists, so if you need to call someone let me know and I can send my personal plumber over, or you can choose from the network of professionals I have assembled on QCGenarl.com just click on plumbing... and windows if you can't fix that window as well.
Thank you, and good luck.
Send more questions if you need to, I would be more than happy to answer them.
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| Q: |
Are there any plumbing companies in the area that are experienced in under slab leaks? |
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Call Mark at (309) 314-3024 . He can do that. |
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